Soundsuits: Nick Cave’s Black Queer Contemporary Art Transcends Boundaries
Iggy Strickland
Abstract:
Artist Nick Cave's artistic vision transcends the confines of contemporary art and fashion, propelling him into the realm of the future. His wearable art is innovative, and his works hold a deliberate socio-political significance. The Soundsuits created by Nick Cave serve as powerful tools for conveying social commentary, prompting viewers to actively engage in discussions surrounding complex issues and drawing attention to often overlooked subjects. Cave's artwork promotes empathy, stimulates meaningful discussions, and motivates collective efforts to improve society. This essay discusses how Cave's Soundsuits span across the domains of fashion, activism, and art. They elicit a diverse array of emotions through the utilization of vivid hues, captivating textures, intricate designs, and exquisite materials. Ultimately, I argue that Soundsuits have revolutionized the fashion industry, serving as a source of inspiration for designers to create visually stunning and intellectually profound pieces that carry social and political significance for Black and queer identity.
Keywords:
Nick Cave, Soundsuits, black community, queer identity, wearable art, activism
How to Cite this Paper: Strickland, Iggy. 2024. “Soundsuits: Nick Cave’s Black Queer Contemporary Art Transcends Boundaries.” CUNY Manifold, June 2024. https://cuny.manifoldapp.org/read/iggystricklandnickcave/section/a4d3ed60-6812-45c5-ac77-5909cbdb5cdf
Nick Cave transcends contemporary art and fashion into the future with groundbreaking wearable art and the intentional socio-political importance engrained in his works. Nick Cave's Soundsuits serve as powerful vehicles for social commentary, inviting viewers to engage with complex issues and prompting conversations about often overlooked or ignored topics. Through his art, Cave encourages empathy, dialogue, and collective action towards positive social change. Cave, a gay black man with a phenomenal career in performance art, dance, and fabric sculpting, became a professor and co-creator of The Creative Space Facility (henceforth: The Facility) in Chicago. One of the key motivations behind The Facility is to provide a supportive environment where artists can explore new ideas, collaborate with others, and develop their skills and techniques. Additionally, Cave aims to use The Facility as a hub for community engagement and social activism, hosting workshops, events, and educational programs that promote creativity, empowerment, and social justice.
Cave was born in Fulton, MO, and raised in a small town where he found love in community and art. Growing up in a tight-knit community with limited resources fueled his resourcefulness and creativity. His career in various art forms culminated in creating his iconic Soundsuits, which testify to his love for the black community and desire to make change. One can easily see most of Cave's creative works as a love letter to the black community and his happy childhood. He uses his perspective on life to spread important messages through distinctive, breathtaking works of art. He became well-known and acclaimed for his breathtaking Soundsuits. In 1991, the Rodney King beating sparked the widely influential riots against police brutality, prompting the creation of the first Soundsuit. Unintentionally, Cave used twigs from the park to create the first Soundsuit. Cave brought these miscellaneous twigs back to his studio, where he began constructing his first suit. It began with his autonomism toward a simple structure or form, but Cave realized he had created a wearable piece of art that was beautiful, totally unique, and made sound.
A Soundsuit's use falls under the categories of fashion, activism, and art. While mystical and enchanting, these pieces bring a range of emotions using bright, vivid colors and various beautiful textures, patterns, and materials. Cave’s practice blends adjacent concepts of fiber art, assisted ready-made, and allegory. Fiber art uses natural or synthetic fiber to sew, knit, quilt, or create a textile art piece. Soundsuits often use various fabric types, such as textiles, felt, fur, and synthetic materials, as their base. These fabrics provide the garment's structure and form while also allowing for flexibility and movement. Metal wire, mesh, and other structural materials create armatures or support structures within the Soundsuits, enabling them to maintain their shape and volume. In some Soundsuits, Cave incorporates elements that produce sound when the wearer moves, such as rattles, bells, or other small objects attached to the garment. Many Soundsuits feature intricate beadwork and sequin embellishments, adding texture, visual interest, and a sense of luxury to the garments. Artists often meticulously hand-sew these embellishments onto the fabric. Cave frequently incorporates found objects such as buttons, baubles, toys, and other small items into his Soundsuits, creating dynamic and eclectic surfaces that capture the viewer's attention. Nick Cave occasionally adorns the Soundsuits with feathers, leaves, and other natural elements, which add dimensionality and organic texture to the garments. Overall, the diverse array of materials used in Nick Cave's Soundsuits contributes to their rich visual and tactile qualities, as well as their ability to engage multiple senses and elicit a sense of wonder and curiosity in the viewer. Currently, Cave has made well over 500 suits, all wearable and capable of making their own sound, but he is still engrossed in his desire to make sociopolitical statements with black contemporary art.
Jeenah Moon, The New York Times
Cave's Soundsuits profoundly influenced contemporary art in several ways. It has expanded the notion of wearable art. Cave's Soundsuits blur the boundaries between fashion, sculpture, and performance. Cave has significantly influenced wearable art by pushing boundaries and challenging traditional concepts of clothing and adornment in relation to the surrounding environment. Cave's innovative use of materials, intricate designs, and emphasis on movement have inspired other artists and designers to explore new possibilities in wearable art. His works encourage experimentation with unconventional materials and construction techniques, as well as incorporating sound and movement into wearable pieces. Furthermore, Cave's emphasis on storytelling and social commentary through his Soundsuits has encouraged other artists to use wearable art to express cultural, political, and personal narratives. Cave's influence on wearable art is evident in its increased experimentation, interdisciplinary collaboration, and conceptual depth. Furthermore, Soundsuits engage with the senses. Cave's Soundsuits appeal to the visual senses of touch, sound, and movement. This multi-sensory approach has influenced artists to consider how their work can engage audiences deeper, creating immersive experiences beyond traditional art forms. By incorporating a wide range of materials, textures, and cultural references in his Soundsuits, Cave celebrates diversity and encourages artists to embrace and explore their own cultural heritage in their work. Overall, Cave's Soundsuits have inspired artists to think more creatively, critically, and inclusively about the possibilities of contemporary art. They've encouraged other artists to use their work as a platform for activism and advocacy, sparking conversations about important issues facing society.
Cave's Soundsuits have significantly impacted the fashion world in several ways. Cave's innovative use of materials and sculptural elements in his Soundsuits has inspired fashion designers to experiment with unconventional textures, shapes, and forms in their garments. Exploring new materials and techniques has created more avant-garde and conceptual fashion pieces. The emphasis on movement and performance in Soundsuits has influenced fashion designers to create visually striking, dynamic, and expressive garments. This has led to the incorporation of elements such as fringe, tassels, and exaggerated silhouettes that enhance the wearer's sense of movement and freedom. Cave's Soundsuits often challenge traditional notions of gender by presenting ambiguous or fluid designs and removing the gendered gaze. This has inspired fashion designers to create collections that explore androgyny, gender neutrality, and non-binary identity, leading to a greater acceptance and celebration of diversity within the fashion industry. Additionally, Cave's Soundsuits draw inspiration from diverse cultures, including African art, ceremonial dress, and pop culture. This has encouraged fashion designers to incorporate cultural heritage and identity elements into their collections, fostering a greater appreciation for global fashion traditions and aesthetics. Cave's work has inspired a diverse range of artists, including other visual artists, fashion designers, performers, and musicians. Some artists have incorporated elements of his work into their designs or performances, while others have created Soundsuits as part of their own artistic practices. Some notable figures influenced by his work include fashion designer Alexander McQueen, performance artist Marina Abramović, and musicians like Lady Gaga and Björk. Cave's Soundsuits have inspired many artists and designers to create their own interpretations or variations. One notable example of someone who recreated Nick Cave's Soundsuits is the artist and costume designer Stephanie Rozene. She has created her own versions of Soundsuits, drawing inspiration from Cave's work while adding her own artistic flair and interpretations. Cave's Soundsuits have inspired various artists, designers, and performers worldwide, inspiring them to create their own versions. One unique recreation was drag artist and finalist of RuPaul’s Drag Race Season 12, Crystal Methyd, who, in her first challenge win, dressed as an all-purple creature adorned in various purple textiles for the Color Purple runway.
Crystal Methyd Credit RPDR Official Facebook
Cave uses the suit to mask the human figure and create an ethereal, high-fashion appearance. This is most likely an allusion to other practices that inspire today's black art, such as masking traditions, the influence of black fashion throughout history, and the intersection of black masculinity and queerness in art forms that impact society. Interestingly enough, when making these suits, Cave also uses art as a medium of queer/racial reclamation, as most forms took shape as he thought of obscure references: the head of a condom, Klans uniforms, the shape of a missile, a mitre (a Pope hat), twigs from the park, and colorful recreations of queer self-expression while being transformative. All unique social imagery and constructs undergo an artistic transformation that reimagines the social status of said object. One can interpret the hidden face of these figures as not a disguise of the black figure but as a defiance of racial associations and societal stereotypes of the corporal body. In his second piece, he constructs a dress silhouette, transforming the figures into slightly human-like forms. The delight in Cave's creations stems from the ability to immerse oneself in the intricate details of each masterpiece. What many consider so profound is how joyful the pieces can be, but they truly come from a dark place of understanding of race, gender, and sexuality in art. By using his art as a tool for activism, he amplifies marginalized voices and advocates for positive social change. In his "Armorsuits" series, Cave addresses gun violence and the culture of fear in American society. Various objects, including toy guns and other symbols of violence, adorn these suits, prompting viewers to confront the impact of gun culture on communities. Some of Cave's Soundsuits also incorporate recycled materials and found objects, highlighting sustainability and environmental conservation issues. Through his art, Cave raises awareness about protecting the planet and reducing waste. These pieces fit right into fashion and art because they are for the artist, the person wearing or experiencing the suit, and the audience or society that perceives them. The inside of the structures becomes a shield from the outside world and society. They have the acoustic ability to create sounds that, from the outside, can only be heard faintly in comparison.
Cave's Soundsuits are also a powerful form of self-expression that transcends racial boundaries. While they originated in response to King’s beating, they've evolved into a broader commentary on identity, race, and social issues. Cave's Soundsuits have addressed issues such as police brutality, racial stereotypes, LGBTQ+ rights, and more. Their transformative nature allows individuals to engage with them regardless of their racial background, fostering dialogue and reflection on themes of identity and society. Cave's Soundsuits can definitely resonate with the queer community, as they challenge conventional norms of identity and encourage self-expression in all its forms. Their extravagant and often gender-fluid designs can speak to the experiences of those in the queer community who may feel marginalized or constrained by societal expectations. Cave's art has resonated with the queer community for several reasons. His bold and flamboyant aesthetic, as seen in his Soundsuits and other works, often celebrates individuality, self-expression, and nonconformity—values that align closely with those of the queer community. Moreover, Cave's emphasis on identity and transformation, particularly through the act of wearing his Soundsuits, resonates with many queer individuals who navigate issues of self-discovery, self-expression, and the fluidity of identity. The transformative power of Cave's art reflects the journey of self-acceptance and empowerment that many queer individuals experience. Additionally, the queer community deeply cherishes Cave's inclusive and community-oriented approach to artmaking, which often involves collaboration and engagement with diverse communities, as it fosters a sense of belonging and solidarity. Overall, Cave's art serves as a source of inspiration, empowerment, and affirmation for many within the queer community, offering a platform for visibility, creativity, and celebration of diverse identities. Beyond that, the Soundsuits also engage with broader social and political themes, such as racial justice, inequality, and the power dynamics of identity. They serve as a platform for addressing systemic issues and encouraging dialogue about the complexities of the human experience. Overall, Cave's work transcends singular interpretations and invites viewers to explore a wide range of social and political issues through the lens of art and creativity.
James Prinz, Seattle Art Museum, Nick Cave, Soundsuit 2006
Nick Cave's achievements with his Soundsuits are multifaceted and significant, spanning artistic, cultural, and social spheres. Cave's Soundsuits represent a groundbreaking fusion of sculpture, fashion, and performance art. Cave has sparked important conversations about identity, race, and social justice. His work serves as a platform for addressing systemic issues and promoting inclusivity, diversity, and understanding within society. Many of Cave's Soundsuit performances involve collaboration with local communities, empowering participants to express themselves and share their stories through art. These projects foster a sense of unity, resilience, and empowerment within marginalized communities. Cave has taught at The School of Art Institute since 1989 and is head of the fashion department. Cave actively mentors young artists, particularly those from underrepresented backgrounds. Cave, a professor and mentor, has inspired countless artists and students to explore their creativity and push their own artistic boundaries. Additionally, there have been educational workshops and community projects where people have had the opportunity to create their own Soundsuits, further expanding the influence and impact of Cave's original concept. Through his teaching and mentorship initiatives, he helps nurture the next generation of black artists and creatives, providing guidance, support, and opportunities for growth. People widely recognize and love Nick Cave's contributions to the art world. He has received various awards, honors, prestigious grants, fellowships, and museum exhibitions for his creative contributions. These include the Joyce Award (2006), the Richard Dreihaus Foundation Individual Artist Award (2006), the Louis Comfort Tiffany Foundation Award (2001), and several grants from Creative Capital (credit United States Artists).
In summary, Nick Cave's accomplishments with his Soundsuits go beyond creative ingenuity and include cultural change, education, advocacy, and acknowledgment among the global art community. Cave's Soundsuits have pushed the boundaries of what is possible in fashion, inspiring designers to create fashion and/or art that is not only visually exquisite but also conceptually rich and socially relevant.
Torrance Art Museum (Nick Cave’s first Soundsuit)
Iggy Strickland (bio)
Works Cited
Kimberly Lamm, “‘The Will to Adorn’: Nick Cave’s Soundsuits and the Queer Reframing of Black Masculinity,” Critical Arts: A South-North Journal of Cultural & Media Studies 31, no. 3 (June 2017): 35–52, https://doi.org/10.1080/02560046.2017.1383494.
Em Mulhall, “The Colorful and the Queer: A Look at Role of Queer Theory and Philosophy in Nick Cave’s Soundsuits,” ProQuest Dissertations and Theses (M.A., United States -- South Dakota, University of South Dakota, 2018),
Prinz, James. “Soundsuit | Smithsonian American Art Museum.” Smithsonian American Art Museum, https://americanart.si.edu/artwork/Soundsuit-80565. Accessed 9 May 2024.
Mercer, Valerie J., et al. “Diversity of Contemporary African American Art.” Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts, vol. 86, no. 1/4, 2012, pp. 88–123. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/43492327. Accessed 18 Apr. 2024.